It was on my very first trip to Ladakh, before any guests had arrived. We were embarking on a recce to understand the snow leopard movement in the Rumbak valley, laying the groundwork so we would know exactly where to take our groups. Our purpose was purely logistical, checking arrangements and understanding the terrain. There was no expectation to see a snow leopard, nor was it even our objective for the day.
But as people who live to explore the wilderness, we couldn't help but scan the mountains as we made our way toward Rumbak. Beside me was our regular local guide from Ladakh, Gyaltson, a man whose eyes are finely tuned to the subtle shifts in these high-altitude landscapes.
That is when, in the most unlikely of places, right on the banks of the Indus River, Gyaltson spotted them: a snow leopard mother with her two cubs.
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A "Nest" on the Indus
The sight was highly unusual. The snow leopard was resting in a nest-like patch of grass on the banks of the Indus, with cubs that were almost as big as she was. Typically, snow leopards are found much higher in the mountains. They usually only come down to lower altitudes when there is heavy snowfall, but since there had been very little snow that year, we still don't know what they were doing so low next to the Indus River.
Initially, they were about 300 to 400 meters away, with the Indus River flowing between us. As we carefully approached to about 200 meters, the mother and her cubs were wrapped together, using her long, thick tail to create what looked exactly like a nest. It was an incredibly intimate, tender moment and the most unusual way to see these elusive cats.
Because it was an exclusive sighting in an area without network coverage, Gyaltson and I took our time. We simply sat and enjoyed it, capturing a few photographs from a safe distance. Since snow leopard sightings are exceptionally rare, we eventually left to find a signal so we could call the other groups scattered around Rumbak and Leh.
By the time the news spread and the other groups arrived, the family had already started moving up the slope. The road where we saw them isn't too far from the airport, and it was fascinating to watch commercial flights landing from behind the very mountain the snow leopards were now climbing. It was a rare, striking example of coexistence in these remote areas, demonstrating the profound resilience of these large cats living in shared landscapes. No one else truly saw them the way Gyaltson and I did in those first, quiet moments.
Thukpa, Chang, and Sleepless Excitement
Since it was just Gyaltson and me on this recce without any guests, we spent the night at a local homestay in Rumbak. In these traditional Ladakhi homes, the family kitchen is always the warmest place in the house because the bukhari (traditional heater) is kept continuously lit.
We sat there late into the evening with our host family, recounting every detail of the sighting. We sipped on warm chang (local barley beer) and ate bowls of hearty thukpa (traditional Ladakhi noodle soup). The adrenaline was still coursing through us. Between the sheer excitement of the day and the sudden change in altitude, neither Gyaltson nor I slept very well that night.
Interpreting the Landscape
Wildlife reveals itself at the most unexpected times and is wildly unpredictable. We were gifted this beautiful sighting when we weren't looking for it or expecting it at all.
When we are with guests, it can sometimes be quite challenging to find animals. This sighting taught me a fundamental lesson: nature will unfold itself exactly the way it wants, and nothing within our control can change that. Rather than expecting wildlife to constantly perform in front of us, my role as a guide is to interpret the signs of the landscape and keep our guests engaged with their surroundings.
Being in such harsh, beautiful landscapes is a luxury in itself. If guests can feel that deep connection to the mountains, they will always be happy, with or without the sightings.
If you'd like to understand the logistics, tracking techniques, and seasonal rhythms of exploring this landscape for yourself, read our complete guide to Snow Leopard Tracking in Ladakh.
